Keeping your axolotl in a safe and healthy environment can sometimes be tricky. Out of the blue water parameters can start to fluctuate and without close monitoring and fixing, the impact can be enormous for your axolotl. The first substance that can seriously impact anything aquatic is ammonia. Knowing what to look for is so important.
Read on to take a closer look at symptoms and how to resolve them effectively.
Identifying When An Axolotl Has Ammonia Poisoning
What no owner wants to see is a poorly axolotl, but it might be quite easily identifiable and therefore treated. There are several symptoms an axolotl can show that might indicate it is suffering from high levels of ammonia.
| Ammonia Poisoning Symptoms |
|---|
| Redness |
| Floating |
| Gills curling forward |
| Gills breaking down |
| Loss of appetite |
| Flaking skin |
| Slime coat breaking away |
| Hiding away all day |
| Stress |
Redness and damage to the skin and slime coat are all indicators of ammonia burns, as the slime and skin on the axolotl are really delicate and sensitive. The same is true of the gill filaments if they are breaking away.
If there is excess ammonia in the water the axolotl will, unfortunately, be ingesting that water. The ammonia will then create gas within the body, which as a result may cause the axolotl to float.
Any of these symptoms are going to be extremely stressful to the axolotl, so their gills could be curling forward, maybe the tail curled, and not taking any food. Another subtle sign that something is wrong is if the axolotl hides away for prolonged periods, out of the norm.
If any of these physical symptoms such as skin burning are severe it is always recommended to seek advice from a vet specialized in treating amphibians.
We’ve looked at the symptoms, but the most important check to do to verify if your axolotl has ammonia poisoning, is to do a thorough water parameter check. The ammonia level should be tested and optimally be 0ppm. An elevated level could indicate a crash in nitrogen cycling or an unusual spike in ammonia.
To be sure, both nitrite and nitrate should be tested as well to get a full picture, along with pH and a temperature check. Nitrite is as poisonous to axolotls as ammonia and should also be 0ppm. Nitrate levels should be <40ppm (less than 40ppm). For now we’ll assume ammonia levels are high, something above 0ppm.
What Causes Ammonia Poisoning
We’ve looked at ammonia poisoning occurring when ammonia levels are present or high, but there are reasons why levels might be generally high or spiking.
Debris
If the tank is not cleaned and there is old poop hanging around it will start to release ammonia, maybe more than the cycled tank can handle. Poop is very delicate and quite often your axolotl might bang against it or attempt to eat and spit out. If that happens the poop will disintegrate and the tiny pieces will let off ammonia.
The debris might work it’s way into the substate depending on what is being used. Any kind of gravel or pebble is likely to find waste, bits of food and debris dropping through gaps.
If the tank is housing live plants then any leaves or stems that are decaying will also start to release ammonia.
Basically, any organic matter left in the water will start to break down and release ammonia.
Overcleaning
The axolotl tank should be housing a good level of beneficial bacteria groups, converting ammonia to nitrite, and nitrite to nitrate. If the tank is thoroughly cleaned there is a risk of depleting the bacteria required to handle the ammonia.
The bacteria will be present on all surfaces including the inside of the glass, so an over-enthusiastic cleaning regime can kill off this protection.
The Cycle Has Crashed
This can happen if something has been added into the water which has totally messed up the cycle, as well as the mentioned overcleaning. It just means that there is sufficient removal, or killing off, of bacteria required to consume the ammonia produced in the tank. The bacteria can’t reproduce quickly enough to deal with the levels of ammonia.
How To Remove Ammonia From Your Axolotl Tank
Remove Your Axolotl
When fixing the ammonia problem in your axolotl tank the first and most important step is to remove your axolotl and place it in a tub or separate tank with clean conditioned water. The water must be 100% changed daily, which will guarantee a safe environment with no ammonia.
Containers are easier because you should have 2 on the go, with one always prepared with clean water to do the daily swap into. Many owners prefer to keep the temperature of this water at the lower end, so ensure the containers are kept in a stable location without any temperature spikes.
Fridging is a last resort method for many conditions, but if you live in a hot changeable environment it may be more stable to keep the containers in the fridge, as warmer water is more stressful and increases the risk of infection. Your axolotl will now be fine and after a day or two, you should start to see the symptoms of ammonia poisoning fading away.
Clean The Tank
This is the opportunity to look for any obvious debris and waste in your axolotl’s environment and remove it. If the substrate is not sand it would be best to remove as much of it as possible and place it in a bucket filled with some clean treated water. Any debris left at the bottom of the tank can then be removed.
This is also a good opportunity to inspect all areas where plants and features are placed and make sure there is no substantial organic matter left decaying. The substrate can then be carefully placed back in the tank, with any waste left in the bucket.
If the substrate is sand it would be a good idea to stir it around, so any gases are released if there are any deeper areas where waste and food can get trapped.
Water Change
If the ammonia levels are through the roof the initial action to take would be to change a substantial amount of water. This could be in the region of 70-80%. After retesting the ammonia levels and it is still high change 50% of the water again. At this stage it might be more beneficial to wait until the next day and then test again for ammonia.
If the levels are low but still above 0ppm the cycling might be happening but you’ll need to give it time for the remaining ammonia to be consumed, ensuring natural and stable cycling. This now means repeated testing and retesting all your water parameters until the cycling is complete and all water parameters are what they should be.
Only reintroduce your axolotl to the tank when it is healthy and all the water parameters are correct. If your axolotl has been in a cooler container then float that in the tank until both are the same temperature before releasing.
Protect Your Axolotl From An Ammonia Spike
Sometimes something happens in your axolotl’s environment that is unknown and unexpected, with immediate action needing to be taken. But there are some basic things to watch out for which will in most cases help prevent ammonia spikes.
- Don’t overclean the tank, as that removes bacteria.
- Don’t wash anything from the tank in untreated tap water, especially filters, as chlorine removes bacteria.
- Don’t clean the tank and filters on the same day, stagger the cleaning evenly to maintain bacteria levels.
- Don’t let waste matter build up.
- Keep live plants with your axolotl, as they absorb levels of ammonia
- Check your axolotl for any symptoms
- Regularly check the water parameters
Keeping On Top Of Ammonia
Realistically if your axolotl is exposed to levels of ammonia over a period of time it can be extremely serious, sometimes requiring the intervention of an amphibian specialist vet. Keeping a close eye on water parameters and keeping a clean tank is a big step in reducing the risk for your axolotl.
If your axolotl is showing any symptoms it’s always best to double-check all parameters, even if they have only just been done, as it is possible to have false readings.
If there are any levels then immediately isolating your axolotl in fresh clean water totally removes the risk, while you can patiently work out what’s gone wrong and go about rectifying. Even if a vet is required don’t skip this.